After that very long 14-hour ride from Smithers to Whitehorse, I had another nearly 14-hour ride from Whitehorse to Eagle Plains. Eagle Plains was the “final boss” in my mind. The road turns to dirt in Dawson City. I am not a skilled rider, particularly on dirt. My bike is heavy and is fully loaded. I tried to pack light, but I knew it would be tricky (for me).
I had hyped up the challenge in my mind, so when I arrived at Dawson City I did not spend the night as most riders would do. I needed to rip the band-aid off. Instead, I rode until nearly midnight on that darn Dempster Highway. It took me forever—nearly 6 hours—to make it to Eagle Plains. But I made it. This was a major personal victory.
The other challenge regarding that same dirt road is that there is nothing between Dawson City and Eagle Plains, a stretch of about 400 km. Nothing. Motorcycles generally do not have the range to make it. So you need to carry extra gas. I did that, and it went well. (Actually, my bike made it there with 9 miles of range to spare without needing the extra gas. On the way back, I did need to top off my bike midway.)
The next morning I got up and headed towards Inuvik. I was exhausted. I had done nothing but ride for 10 days. On the dirt road, I had become very tense, and my shoulder was killing me. As I thought about the road ahead—two more days of dirt and cold, hoping for good weather, worrying about gas, and staying in crappy motels—I must admit the excitement had worn off.
As I had nearly arrived at Ft. McPherson, a thick mist rolled in. The temperature dropped to the 30s, light (but freezing) rain was coming down, and visibility was so poor that vehicles were traveling at 20 MPH with their hazards on.
I was cold. I was tired. I was miserable. At that point, the only reason to continue was to “earn the badge.” Don’t misunderstand me: I would have loved to dip my toes in the Artic Ocean. Anyone who has made it all the way, has my full admiration. But I had two options, turn back to Eagle Plains and wait for better weather (other riders I met told me they never encountered weather below 50), or just throw in the towel. I chose the latter.
It may seem like, “I was so close!” But close to what? I have challenged myself. I have ridden more and further than I ever have before—all solo. I traversed through all of British Columbia, the Yukon, and made it into the Artic Circle and the Territories! I am very happy with that. Would I like to say I made it to the Artic Ocean. Absolutely! But I am an adventurer for fun. I was not having fun at all. I want to go home.
I must add a positive note. On my way back to Dawson City, my dirt riding had improved dramatically. It seems like all one needs to get better at it is to do it for 16 continual hours, with no way out. Funny how that works. I was traveling at 50 to 65 MPH on that loose-gravel road. It felt amazing.
This post almost feels like the adventure is over, but I still have a 10 day ride back home!
For more pictures, see these two notes:
You are wrong... you did make it! You made it to your personal goal for crying out loud, after a grueling solo journey. Don't downplay your personal accomplishment! Too many people "hype" themselves to cover up for their own perceived inadequacies... but I don't think you are doing that by any stretch. Only you can decide where your turnback point is in this particular adventure, and you did with your personal goal accomplished. Chalk it up as a win and make your way back home safely. Can't wait to see you back with Matt, so we can hear a first hand account! Good weather and God be with you on your return trip. 👍👍
Did you dip your feet in the Peel River? If so, that water will reach the Arctic Ocean. Therefore success!
There's been many out-and-back hikes I've taken where I stop and ask myself if I should continue. Knowing that I'm only adding steps away from my destination. Sometimes I continue. Recently, I turned back early. Several factors weren't going the way I wanted. Deemed it safer to start my return.
Stay safe and enjoy your ride home!